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Portrait Photography: |
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Vicar Senior Member Joined: 02 Sep 2004 No. of posts: 1181  View other posts by Vicar |
Posted: 11 May 2007 Since I'll be running a reptile photography workshop this weekend, my mind has drifted towards trying to tie down the simple things to consider, that should get you 90% of the way to a decent portrait picture. I've not considered shots for scientific purposes here. I also believe that a good subject is the best way to get a good picture, regardless of equipment (although it helps to have the right kit). Here are my draft thoughts, which I'll update after comment from the forum. Please apply the KISS protocol !  I've tried to roughly color-code three aspects: what makes a good subject, camera settings and how to take the picture. All thoughts on content and usefullness very welcome.  Steve Langham - Chairman 
Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG). |
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arvensis Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2006 No. of posts: 445 View other posts by arvensis |
Posted: 11 May 2007 I suppose distance from the subject can be a consideration, as you know, sometimes, you can get closer than other times. Mark Hampshire Amphibian and Reptile Group. |
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DrDom Member Joined: 13 Jul 2005 No. of posts: 14 View other posts by DrDom |
Posted: 11 May 2007 Steve - looks pretty comprehensive to me Your approach is very useful, particularly if you can condense it into a set of simple rules with perhaps some basic priorities - it's always difficult to remember everything when you've got an animal posing!
Af taken with one hand whilst holding large tin with other - you can just about get away with low DOF sometimes.... You're right about DOF but I would suggest that shutter speed is the limiting factor here (you can get a good shot with low DOF but never if shaken) so might suggest you actually go with shutter priority. Not sure is its > or < for faster shutter speeds......greater speed/shorter time... Remember to point out this ROT needs to take onboard crop-factors for DSLRs (so use reciprocal of equivalent focal length). Yes regarding tripods, monopods & bean bags etc also good. You can't over-emphasise the photographer/subject height point! Vegetation in way/background, diffciult to spot, espacially if you have limited time, if you have it/and the time use DOF preview and/or use your free eye to look at subject. On lighting strong sunlight causes contrast issues for film and digital. In digital use RAW if you have it and use the camera's histogram to test exposure (before finding subject), expose as far to the right as poss without blowing highlights. Fill-in flash can be softened using a diffuser, either 20p worth of plastic bought for ú30 or make your own from milk cartons, or tape a bit of paper tissue over the flash. I think you've covered everything else - good luck with weather and have fun Dom
Dominic Tantram - Guildford Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG) |
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Wolfgang Wuster Senior Member Joined: 23 Apr 2003 No. of posts: 326 View other posts by Wolfgang Wuster |
Posted: 12 May 2007 One additional consideration might be the "rule of thirds" - the centre of attention (usually the eye) should not be in the centre of the photo, but one of the "third divisor junctions". Basically, if imagine the photo divided into thirds both horizontally and vertically (i.e., into nine rectangles), then the eye should be on one of the corners of the central rectangle, not in the middle. Note that, depending on your camera, this may require fiddling with the autofocus to stop the camera from refocussing away from the eye. Cheers, WW Wolfgang Wüster School of Biological Sciences, University of Wales, Bangor http://sbsweb.bangor.ac.uk/~bss166/ |
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Deano Senior Member Joined: 23 Aug 2005 No. of posts: 133  View other posts by Deano |
Posted: 12 May 2007 I would go with the 400 ISO setting. Most Pro Wildlife shooters don't go any slower. If you do get noise in the picture, try using software like 'Noise Ninja' to remove it. If you want an inexpensive reflector (instead of fill flash), use the base from the packaging of a pizza. Deano Better to be lucky than good looking. |
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arvensis Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2006 No. of posts: 445 View other posts by arvensis |
Posted: 12 May 2007 To add to Deano's point, check what the ISO setting is before you start shooting. Yours truly forgot to do this earlier this week and as a result, it was still on ISO1600 from a previous astro-shoot. Mark Hampshire Amphibian and Reptile Group. |
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Robert V Senior Member Joined: 06 Aug 2004 No. of posts: 717 View other posts by Robert V |
Posted: 15 May 2007 Steve, seeing as there are a number of very good photographers on here available for comment, can any one of you answer me a simple question..... Why is it harder to take a distance shot of an Adder in situ than it is for a grass snake? I don't mean harder as in creeping up (because of course we all know a Grassie is a lot harder to creep up on aand snap) but what i mean is, although I can get crystal clear shots on a Grassie, practically all my Adder shots get fuzzed up. heres just one example. HELP! RobV |
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Vicar Senior Member Joined: 02 Sep 2004 No. of posts: 1181 View other posts by Vicar |
Posted: 15 May 2007 GOOD Question ! This is something I noticed with my old Fuji camera. For some reason it would not reliably auto-focus on adders (and only adders!). I assumed it was because the contrast of an adder (against the background) is less than for a natrix, so nearby vegetation would get locked onto as often as the adder. The fix was to use manual focus, but unless you have an SLR camera, manual focus can be very tricky. With my old camera I threw away about 30% of pictures due to poor focus, with an SLR I now bin only about 3%. Steve Langham - Chairman
Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG). |
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Alan Hyde Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2003 No. of posts: 1416 View other posts by Alan Hyde |
Posted: 17 May 2007 Steve, Don't forget to get your reptiles best side , and for a good natural smile the photographer should crack a few mouse jokes. Mind you, I've also had good results with grass snakes by asking them to just act natural and pretend the camera's not there . Just this morning I recieved three portfolios from adders out at Brookwood that are looking for modeling work . One of them is a real stunner and soon I predict you'll see her on the herpy cat walks (You heard it here first folks)
Al O-> O+> |
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Robert V Senior Member Joined: 06 Aug 2004 No. of posts: 717 View other posts by Robert V |
Posted: 17 May 2007
hahaha, good laugh Al! RobV |
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Alan Hyde Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2003 No. of posts: 1416 View other posts by Alan Hyde |
Posted: 17 May 2007  O-> O+> |
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Vicar Senior Member Joined: 02 Sep 2004 No. of posts: 1181 View other posts by Vicar |
Posted: 17 May 2007 Alan, I'm surprised at your flippancy on such a serious subject ! Those 'size-zero' model snakes are doing no good to for the personal image of your 'joan-average' snake. Puff adders already have serious image & weight issues, and these fly-by-night hussies don't make their life any easier. They should get some voles down their necks and put some meat on their bones ! Yours...'Outraged' from Tunbrige Wells. Steve Langham - Chairman
Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG). |
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Alan Hyde Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2003 No. of posts: 1416 View other posts by Alan Hyde |
Posted: 18 May 2007
Dear Outraged from Tunbridge Wells, never have we been more in agreement. We here at Stout Serpents avoid those size zero herpetiles like the plague and actively campaign against the dark seedy world of coke ridden exploited scaleys. Our magazine covers all aspects of a healthy heathland Lifestyle. Diet, Excersise, who's who in the herp world , Celebrity Serpents, and a monthly Problem page that discusses sexual and mental problems. Only last month (Issue 4 ) we covered being gravid in a 8 page pullout with gorgeous glossy pictures of Sabrina the smoothy at 4 months. Also, Check out the problem page in up and coming issue number 5, "Angry Adder from Alton writes, ' My Daughters Dating A greeny". A very sensetive subject that covers difficult issues such as racism, a mothers concern over her daughters relationship with a grass snake. All the best , The Stout Serpents Team O-> O+> |
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arvensis Senior Member Joined: 15 Mar 2006 No. of posts: 445 View other posts by arvensis |
Posted: 18 May 2007 Rob, I reckon the reason why it is difficult to take a distance shot of an Adder is the fact that the zig-zag and other markings help to break to break up its outline. Mark Hampshire Amphibian and Reptile Group. |
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DrDom Member Joined: 13 Jul 2005 No. of posts: 14 View other posts by DrDom |
Posted: 21 May 2007 Rob Couldn't see your example. However, there are two reasons for fuzzyness, 1) camera shake (from using too 'slow' a shutter speed) and 2) the focus is in the wrong place. If you're using digital look at the Exif data for the shot to see what shutter speed you used - it should be at least 1/equivalent focal length (see discussion above), shaken photos are blurry all over. If it's a focus issue as Vicar suggests then some part of the picture will probably be sharp. The solution is to use manual focus if you can as he suggest. If I had time I'd look for a technical explanation - it's most likely to do with autofocus contrast and phase detection systems and adder patterns confusing the camera! Even if you can get them sharp they rarely show up..........
Dominic Tantram - Guildford Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG) |
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DrDom Member Joined: 13 Jul 2005 No. of posts: 14 View other posts by DrDom |
Posted: 21 May 2007 See tonight's Panorama for an expose ? Rumours abound they're in league with infamous crack squirrels and already abound in leafy Surrey... However, everyone knows that all those at Stout Serpents are in fact lazy lounge lizards shamelessly exploiting the incipient neuroses of 'joan-average' snake. Dominic Tantram - Guildford Surrey Amphibian & Reptile Group (SARG) |
- Portrait Photography |
, I've only got some fairly specific/nitpicking comments, much of which you know, but then it stops me lurking...
